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- No scale
- - Particular scales
- Soldiers
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- Bolt Action (28mm)
- Vehicles (1:25)
- Railway (1:25)
- Railway (H0, TT, N)
- Hooks and shackles
- Planes/aircraft stuff
- Car stuff
- Construction
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- Road/street stuff
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- All others
- Figures and busts
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Paczkomaty InPost
FAQ
Below you will find the most frequently asked questions along with our answers and suggestions:
1. Do the parts need additional curing?
Most parts/products are delivered already cured. However, in order not to delay order fulfillment, it may happen that a part is shipped uncured.
You can recognize this if the part feels more flexible or rubber-like. In such a case, before painting, we recommend curing the part just to be safe (in sunlight or under a UV lamp).
2. Do the parts need to be washed or rinsed again?
All prints are washed and rinsed 3–4 times before shipping. Due to the nature of resin prints, we do not recommend leaving them in cleaning solutions for too long.
If a part still feels slightly sticky, we suggest rinsing it in at least 40% alcohol or in warm soapy water.
3. How and with what should supports be removed?
Supports can be removed mechanically by breaking them off, cutting off larger sections first, and then trimming the remaining parts with clippers, a razor blade, or a scalpel.
Another method is to remove supports by immersing the part in warm water (approx. 60–70°C / 140–160°F) or by using a hair dryer for a few seconds.
4. Should the parts be primed before painting?
Like any surface prepared for painting, 3D prints should be cleaned, degreased, and then primed.
Primer helps fill micro-imperfections, smooth the surface, improve paint adhesion, and reveal areas that may require additional work or sanding.
5. Is a special primer required?
No special primer is required. Any primer—even automotive primer—will work, as long as it does not flood and obscure fine details.
6. What paints should be used, and which should be avoided?
Prints can be painted with virtually any type of model paint and more. We have seen successful results using both water-based acrylics and traditional oil paints.
7. Why are there holes or round openings in my part/figurine?
Due to the nature of resin printing, some elements are printed as “hollow” (empty inside). This reduces material usage and printing costs, and also lowers internal pressure during printing. Excessive pressure or stress increases the risk of delamination—not only during printing but also during drying and curing.
Small holes on the sides (e.g. road barriers) or on the bottom (e.g. tubs or barrels) also serve to reduce pressure. Thanks to this solution, the printed part has a smoother and more uniform surface.
Importantly, for hollow, enclosed elements (e.g. barrels), we recommend not sealing all holes until the part is fully dry and cured. Even a small amount of resin trapped inside may evaporate over time, increase internal pressure, and eventually cause the part to crack from the inside.
8. What should be used to glue printed parts together?
Most products are delivered as single, ready-to-use pieces, but some require assembly and gluing. After basic surface preparation (curing, sanding), parts are best glued using CA (cyanoacrylate) glue, often called super glue. Two-part epoxy adhesives can also be used.
If you have any other questions, feel free to contact us.
We will do our best to keep adding answers to your questions here.
